Russia • Iran
North Korea • Afghanistan
The Silk Road to the Hermit Kingdom
1. Trip Overview & Routing
This itinerary connects four of the world’s most restricted and least-visited destinations into a single overland expedition: Russia, Iran, North Korea, and Afghanistan. Every country on this route carries significant travel advisories from the Swiss FDFA and most Western governments. This is not a leisure holiday — it is an expedition into geopolitically complex terrain that requires meticulous planning, specialist security support, and a high tolerance for uncertainty.
Journey at a Glance
| Leg | Destination | Duration | Risk Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Russia — Moscow & Kazan | 14 days | Elevated |
| 2 | Iran — Tehran, Isfahan, Shiraz, Persepolis | 7 days | High |
| 3 | North Korea (DPRK) — Pyongyang & DMZ | 7 days | Extreme |
| 4 | Afghanistan — Kabul, Bamyan, Mazar-i-Sharif, Panjshir | 14 days | Extreme |
The routing flows west to east: Moscow first, then south to Iran, east to North Korea (via Beijing), before the final leg into Afghanistan. Return to Zürich from Kabul via Istanbul or Dubai.
2. Security & Risk Assessment
This is the most critical section of this itinerary. Unlike conventional travel, every destination on this route requires active security planning.
Russia
- Main risks: Detention on unclear grounds, visa complications, restricted areas, surveillance of foreign nationals
- Sanctions impact: Western credit cards (Visa/Mastercard) do not work in Russia. Carry cash (USD/EUR) and use UnionPay or local payment methods
- Communication: VPN essential. Many Western services blocked or restricted
Iran
- Main risks: Arbitrary detention of Western nationals, regional instability, restricted zones near borders
- Dress code: Strictly enforced — modest dress for all visitors, headscarf mandatory for women
- Passport restriction: Israeli stamps or evidence of travel to Israel will result in entry denial
- Communication: Internet heavily censored. VPN required but technically illegal
North Korea (DPRK)
- Main risks: Arbitrary detention (years-long sentences documented), total surveillance, no legal recourse, no consular support
- Absolute rules: No photographing military, no disrespecting leaders or imagery, no religious materials, no unescorted movement
- Electronics: Devices may be searched on entry and exit. GPS devices confiscated
Afghanistan
- Main risks: Kidnapping, IEDs, armed attacks, arbitrary detention, no rule of law
- Mandatory: Armed private security team, armoured vehicles, local intelligence network
- Women travellers: Severe restrictions on movement, dress, and activities for women under Taliban rule
- Insurance: Specialist hostile-environment insurance required (e.g., Battleface, Global Rescue)
Recommended Security Providers
Global Rescue
Medical and security evacuation from anywhere on Earth, including conflict zones and denied areas.
International SOS
24/7 security intelligence, pre-trip briefings, in-country support, and emergency evacuation. Used by Fortune 500 companies.
Battleface Insurance
One of the few insurers that covers travel to FDFA “Do Not Travel” countries including Afghanistan.
3. Russia: Moscow & Kazan
Why This Leg
Moscow is one of the world’s great capitals — a city of imperial grandeur, Soviet monumentalism, and contemporary energy. Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan, is the cultural crossroads where Orthodox Christianity and Islam coexist in stunning architectural harmony. And for a volleyball fan, watching Zenit Kazan play at home is a pilgrimage.
Recommended Duration
14 days total: 7 days in Moscow, 2 days transit/travel, 5 days in Kazan.
Moscow Itinerary
Red Square & the Kremlin
St Basil’s Cathedral, the Kremlin Armoury, Diamond Fund, GUM department store. Evening walk along the Moskva River.
Tretyakov Gallery & Soviet Heritage
Old Tretyakov for Russian icons and realism. New Tretyakov for Soviet-era art. VDNKh exhibition centre and the Cosmonaut Museum.
Moscow Metro & Cultural Exploration
The Moscow Metro is an underground palace — visit Komsomolskaya, Mayakovskaya, and Ploshchad Revolyutsii stations. Bolshoi Theatre (book well in advance). Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts. Gorky Park.
Day Trips & Departure
Sergiev Posad (Trinity Lavra monastery, UNESCO site, 1.5h from Moscow). Novodevichiy Cemetery. Prepare for overnight train to Kazan.
Moscow → Kazan Transfer
Recommended: Overnight train from Kazansky Railway Station (11–13h, book SV/Lux 2-berth deluxe cabin). Alternatively: 1h45 direct flight via Aeroflot from Sheremetyevo (SVO) to Kazan (KZN).
Kazan Itinerary
Kazan Kremlin & Old Town
The Kazan Kremlin (UNESCO) with the Qolsharif Mosque and Annunciation Cathedral standing side by side — a symbol of Tatar-Russian coexistence. Bauman Street pedestrian area. Temple of All Religions.
🏐 Zenit Kazan Volleyball Match
Watch the legendary Zenit Kazan at the Volleyball Center of the Republic of Tatarstan. The team features stars like Micah Christenson (USA setter), Maksim Mikhaylov (one of the greatest opposites in history), Dmitriy Volkov, and Sam Deroo. Multiple Russian Superleague and CEV Champions League titles. Capacity ~5,000 — book tickets early through the club website.
Sviyazhsk Island & Tatar Culture
Day trip to Sviyazhsk Island (UNESCO) — a fortress-monastery town founded by Ivan the Terrible. Tatar cuisine exploration: echpochmak, chak-chak, and horse meat dishes. National Museum of the Republic of Tatarstan.
Must-See Highlights
- Red Square at night: St Basil’s illuminated is one of the world’s great sights
- Moscow Metro stations: The world’s most beautiful underground system — chandeliers, mosaics, marble
- Kazan Kremlin: Mosque and cathedral within the same fortress walls — unique in the world
- Zenit Kazan match: One of the greatest volleyball clubs in history, in their home arena
- Sviyazhsk Island: A sacred island frozen in time, UNESCO World Heritage
4. Iran
Why Iran
Iran is home to one of the world’s oldest civilisations, with 27 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The architecture, hospitality, cuisine, and cultural depth are unmatched in the region. Despite the political situation, experienced travellers consistently describe Iranians as among the most hospitable people on Earth.
Recommended Duration
7 days: Tehran (2), Isfahan (2), Shiraz & Persepolis (2), Yazd (1).
Tehran
Golestan Palace (UNESCO), National Museum of Iran, Grand Bazaar, Milad Tower for panoramic views. Sa’dabad Complex and Niavaran Palace in the northern hills. North Tehran’s café culture around Darband and Tajrish.
Isfahan — “Half the World”
Naqsh-e Jahan Square (UNESCO) — one of the largest and most beautiful public squares on Earth. Shah Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Ali Qapu Palace. Si-o-se-pol and Khaju bridges. The Armenian quarter of Jolfa and Vank Cathedral.
Shiraz & Persepolis
Persepolis (UNESCO) — the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire, 2,500 years old. Nasir al-Mulk Mosque (“Pink Mosque”) with its famous stained-glass light show at dawn. Tomb of Hafez. Eram Garden. Naqsh-e Rostam rock tombs.
Yazd
Ancient Zoroastrian city (UNESCO). Towers of Silence, Jameh Mosque, the old quarter’s wind catchers (badgirs), and Zoroastrian fire temple with a flame burning since 470 AD.
Must-See Highlights
- Naqsh-e Jahan Square, Isfahan: 560m × 160m of pure architectural perfection
- Persepolis: The Achaemenid Empire’s 2,500-year-old ceremonial capital
- Nasir al-Mulk Mosque: The “Pink Mosque” — arrive at sunrise for the rainbow light
- Yazd old quarter: 5,000 years of continuous habitation, earth-coloured labyrinth
- Iranian hospitality: Expect to be invited for tea by strangers — this is genuine and worth accepting
5. North Korea (DPRK)
Tour Operators (When Borders Reopen)
Koryo Tours
The most established Western operator for DPRK travel. Beijing-based. Emphasis on cultural engagement. Founded 1993.
Young Pioneer Tours
Budget-focused operator with frequent departures. More adventurous itineraries including cycling and marathon tours.
Typical 7-Day Itinerary
Arrival in Pyongyang
Fly from Beijing (Air Koryo) or enter by train via Dandong. Meet government-assigned guides. Juche Tower, Kim Il-sung Square, Mansudae Grand Monument (mandatory deep bow to the statues).
Pyongyang City
Kumsusan Palace of the Sun (mausoleum of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il — formal dress required). Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum. Pyongyang Metro (deepest in the world at 110m). Mass Games if in season — one of the most extraordinary spectacles on Earth.
DMZ & Kaesong
Joint Security Area at Panmunjom — the most heavily militarised border in the world. Step into the blue UN buildings straddling the border. Kaesong old town and the Koryo Museum.
Mount Myohyang & Departure
International Friendship Exhibition (gifts to the leaders from world leaders, displayed in a massive underground complex). Hiking in Mount Myohyang. Return to Pyongyang for departure.
6. Afghanistan
Why Afghanistan
Afghanistan sits at the crossroads of Central and South Asian civilisations. Before decades of conflict, it was a stop on the hippie trail and a cradle of Buddhist, Persian, and Islamic culture. The landscapes — from the Hindu Kush to the Wakhan Corridor — are among the most dramatic on Earth. A handful of specialist operators continue to operate under extreme protocols.
Suggested 14-Day Itinerary
Kabul
Babur Gardens (tomb of the Mughal Empire’s founder). National Museum of Afghanistan (rebuilt after looting). Chicken Street (historic bazaar). Darul Aman Palace (ruins of the modernisation dream). Security briefing with local fixer and armed escorts.
Bamyan Valley
Site of the destroyed Bamiyan Buddhas (6th century, blown up by Taliban in 2001). The empty niches remain a powerful, haunting sight. Band-e-Amir National Park — Afghanistan’s first national park, a chain of stunning turquoise lakes at 3,000m. Shahr-e Gholghola (“City of Screams”) — ruins of a city destroyed by Genghis Khan.
Panjshir Valley
The valley of the legendary Ahmad Shah Massoud. Stunning mountain scenery in the Hindu Kush. One of the more secure regions historically, though security must be actively verified.
Mazar-i-Sharif
Blue Mosque (Shrine of Hazrat Ali) — one of the most beautiful mosques in Central Asia. Balkh — “Mother of Cities” — ruined capital that predates Alexander the Great. Afghan Buzkashi (traditional horseback sport) if in season.
Departure via Kabul
Return to Kabul. Fly to Dubai or Istanbul for connection to Zürich.
Specialist Tour Operators
Untamed Borders
UK-based specialist in conflict-zone travel. Operating in Afghanistan since 2007. Armed security, experienced local guides.
Hinterland Travel
Boutique operator for Central Asia and frontier travel. Strong Afghan networks. Tailored security protocols.
7. Flight Routing from Switzerland
| Leg | Route | Airlines | Duration |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Zürich → Moscow (SVO) | Turkish Airlines (via IST), Emirates (via DXB) | 6–10h (1 stop) |
| B | Moscow → Kazan | Aeroflot, Nordwind | 1h45 direct |
| C | Kazan → Tehran (IKA) | Mahan Air, Iran Air (via Moscow) | 5–8h (1 stop) |
| D | Tehran → Beijing (PEK) | Mahan Air, China Southern | 7–10h |
| E | Beijing → Pyongyang (FNJ) | Air Koryo (or train via Dandong) | 2h flight / 24h train |
| F | Pyongyang → Beijing | Air Koryo | 2h |
| G | Beijing → Kabul (KBL) | Kam Air, Ariana Afghan (via Dubai) | 8–12h (1 stop) |
| H | Kabul → Zürich (via Istanbul or Dubai) | Turkish Airlines, flydubai + SWISS | 10–14h (1 stop) |
Booking Notes
- No direct Zürich–Moscow flights: Due to sanctions and airspace closures, routes go via Istanbul, Dubai, or Belgrade
- Iran flights: Western airlines do not fly to Iran. Use Mahan Air, Iran Air, or Turkish Airlines to Tehran
- Air Koryo: North Korea’s state airline. One of the world’s most sanctioned carriers. Flights only from Beijing or Vladivostok
- Afghanistan: Very limited international service. Kam Air and Ariana Afghan Airlines operate via Dubai
- Estimated total flights: CHF 4,000–8,000 depending on routing and class
8. Visa & Entry Requirements
Swiss passport holders require visas for all four countries on this itinerary. None offer visa-free entry.
| Country | Visa? | Type | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Russia | Yes | e-Visa (16 days) or consular visa (30+ days) | e-Visa insufficient for 14-day stay. Apply for standard tourist visa via Russian consulate in Bern. Invitation letter required from hotel or travel agency. |
| Iran | Yes | Tourist visa (Visa Grant Notice) | Apply through authorised agency or Iranian consulate. No Israeli stamps in passport. VOA possible at Tehran IKA but pre-approval recommended. |
| North Korea | Yes | Tourist visa via tour operator | Arranged entirely by authorised tour operator (Koryo Tours / YPT). Visa issued on separate tourist card — no passport stamp. Must book via operator. |
| Afghanistan | Yes | Tourist visa via Taliban MFA | Apply through de facto Taliban authorities or specialist tour operator. Requirements and process unclear and subject to change. Multiple permits may be needed for travel outside Kabul. |
Important Documents
- Passport: Valid for at least 6 months beyond return. Minimum 8 blank pages (multiple visas and stamps)
- Second passport: Strongly recommended. Iran will deny entry if passport shows Israeli travel. Separate passport for Iran leg.
- Travel insurance: Specialist hostile-environment policy covering all four countries (standard policies exclude DPRK and Afghanistan)
- Registration: Register with Swiss FDFA’s Itineris travel registration system for all legs
- Emergency contacts: Printed list of Swiss embassies/consulates and security provider 24h hotline
9. Estimated Budget
Per-person estimates. All amounts in USD. These countries are considerably cheaper than Western destinations, but security costs are significant.
| Category | Range (USD) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Russia — Hotels (14 nights) | $2,000 – $5,000 | Luxury hotels in Moscow and Kazan |
| Russia — Activities & Food | $1,500 – $3,000 | Bolshoi tickets, Zenit match, restaurants, trains |
| Iran (7 days) | $1,500 – $3,000 | Hotels, guides, domestic flights, meals |
| North Korea (7 days) | $1,400 – $3,000 | All-inclusive tour package via operator |
| Afghanistan (14 days) | $4,500 – $8,000 | Tour operator, armed security, vehicles, guides |
| International Flights | $4,000 – $8,000 | Multiple legs, mix of carriers |
| Visas & Permits | $500 – $1,000 | Four separate visa applications |
| Security & Insurance | $3,000 – $5,000 | Global Rescue, Battleface, satellite phone |
| Miscellaneous | $1,000 – $2,000 | Cash reserves, tips, contingency |
A realistic mid-range estimate: approximately USD 25,000–30,000 per person. The Afghanistan leg is disproportionately expensive due to mandatory security costs.
10. Hotels & Accommodation
Moscow
Four Seasons Hotel Moscow
Adjacent to Red Square and the Kremlin. Rooftop views, exceptional spa. The best location in Moscow.
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski
Directly across the Moskva River from the Kremlin. Historic elegance, refined service.
Kazan
Kazan Palace by Tasigo
Premier luxury property. Superb architecture, spa, and proximity to the Kremlin.
Korston Royal Hotel
Well-established luxury option with comprehensive amenities and excellent city views.
Tehran
Espinas Palace Hotel
Tehran’s premier luxury hotel. International standard. Rooftop restaurant with Alborz mountain views.
Parsian Azadi Hotel
Iconic Tehran landmark with panoramic views. Full-service, reliable international standard.
Isfahan & Shiraz
Abbasi Hotel, Isfahan
300-year-old caravanserai converted into a luxury hotel. Courtyard gardens. Walking distance to Naqsh-e Jahan Square.
Zandiyeh Hotel, Shiraz
Modern 5-star with traditional Persian design. Excellent base for Persepolis day trip.
Pyongyang
Yanggakdo International Hotel
47-storey hotel on an island in the Taedong River. The standard tourist hotel. Revolving restaurant, bowling alley, pool.
Afghanistan
Serena Hotel, Kabul
The only internationally managed hotel in Kabul. Fortified compound. The standard for NGO and diplomatic guests.
Local Guesthouses (Bamyan & Mazar)
Basic but clean accommodation arranged by tour operator. No international hotel options outside Kabul.
11. Packing & Preparation
Clothing
- Conservative dress: Essential for Iran (long sleeves, trousers), North Korea (no jeans at monuments), and Afghanistan (full coverage)
- Layers: Russia and Afghan highlands can be cold; Iran and Kabul can be hot. Versatile layering system
- Formal outfit: Required for Kumsusan Palace in Pyongyang (suit/dress, no jeans, no sandals)
- Sturdy walking shoes: Essential for Bamyan, Panjshir, and Russian city exploration
Essential Gear
- Satellite phone: Mandatory for Afghanistan. Thuraya or Iridium. Local SIMs unreliable
- VPN (pre-installed): Essential for Russia, Iran, and China (Beijing transit). Multiple providers recommended
- Cash in USD: Carry $5,000+ in clean, new $100 bills. Cards don’t work in Russia (sanctions), Iran (sanctions), DPRK, or most of Afghanistan
- Photocopies: Multiple copies of passport, visas, insurance, emergency contacts. Stored separately from originals
- First aid kit: Comprehensive, including altitude medication for Bamyan (3,000m) and Band-e-Amir
- Camera: Be extremely careful photographing in DPRK and military areas in all countries. Ask before photographing people in Iran and Afghanistan
Health
- Vaccinations: Hepatitis A & B, typhoid, polio booster (Afghanistan), rabies (recommended for Afghanistan). Consult travel clinic
- Altitude: Bamyan sits at 2,500m, Band-e-Amir at 3,000m. Allow acclimatisation time
- Water: Bottled water only in all four countries. No tap water anywhere on this route
- Medical kit: Full prescription supply. Include broad-spectrum antibiotics, anti-diarrhoeal, rehydration salts
12. Next Steps
This expedition traverses some of the most complex geopolitical terrain on Earth. It combines world-class cultural heritage — the Kremlin, Persepolis, the Bamiyan Buddhas, the DMZ — with the reality of travelling through sanctioned, restricted, and conflict-affected states. It is not for the faint-hearted, but for the prepared traveller, it offers experiences that almost no one on Earth will ever have.
Priority Actions
- Monitor DPRK border status through Koryo Tours and Young Pioneer Tours — this is the key gating factor
- Engage a security consultancy (Global Rescue or International SOS) for pre-trip threat assessment
- Apply for Russian tourist visa through Russian consulate in Bern (requires invitation letter)
- Secure hostile-environment travel insurance covering all four countries
- Contact Untamed Borders or Hinterland Travel for Afghanistan leg planning
- Begin fitness preparation — Afghanistan involves high-altitude trekking
- Register all legs with Swiss FDFA Itineris system
- Purchase satellite phone and test before departure